On the evening of 28 December, I attended a tasting organised in San Zeno di Montagna by my friend
Angelo Peretti, a great and passionate connoisseur of wines, the 1960s Bordeaux being the protagonists, only Saint-Emilion.
I would take too long reporting the tasting notes and annotations for each individual wine, also dictated by the euphoria of the moment, so here is the list and two personal observations:
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1961 Château Yon-Figeac
- Saint-Emilion 1961 Château Cormen-Figeac
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1962 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1964 Château Guadet-St. Julien
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1964 Château L'Arrosée
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1966 Château Fombrauge
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1966 Château Larcis Ducasse
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1967 Château Balestard La Tonnelle
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1967 Château Canon La Gaffeliere
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1969 Château Soutard
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1969 Château Villemaurine
We were lucky, the wines were almost all in perfect condition, but perfect would be too cold and trite to describe what we tasted. I mean amazing in their integrity, elegance, complexity and freshness!!! Yes, just as fresh as wines that are a long way from ageing, and you could tell this from the colour.
First battery from 1961 to 1964 (5 wines), very good, especially Château Yon-Figeac (1961 is considered the vintage of the century in France). Chateau L'Arrosée 1964 is also one of those that impressed me the most with its elegance and envelopment.
Second battery composed of 6 wines from the 1966 to 1969 vintages, all simply AMAZING! The quality average was very high, it was difficult to decide which was my favourite. I was torn between Château Fombrauge 1966, Château Balestard La Tonnelle 1967 and Château Soutard 1969. You wouldn't give them 10 years, cleanliness, elegance and length in the mouth combined with the charm of time... and then, tasting them once, twice more after half an hour, an hour and they change, they open up more and more and you find nuances that are gradually different, but always with the same intensity and freshness. It is incredible how these ’mature“ wines (not old, I can't really say, some are my age!!!) were able to evoke in me ancient flavours like that liquorice stick that now dwells in my childhood memories and... I'll stop here!
But in the end what did I like best? Here are my faboulus four:
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1967 Château Balestard La Tonnelle
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1966 Château Fombrauge
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1969 Château Soutard
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1961 Château Yon-Figea
There is just one question buzzing in my head: will Bordeaux wines produced in the last 10 years have the same longevity, freshness, etc.? Blame climate change? Is it the fault of the market that demands more and more ready-made and immediate wines? Is there anyone among the many wines we produce/produce in Italy that can stand the test of time as well?
My heartfelt thanks to my friend Angelo for a truly unforgettable evening, this was a more than regal way to end the year and celebrate the arrival of the new one.
Cristina
NB: this is not a blog, but if you would like to write to me or have any questions about this please contact me by email info@cantrina.it
